Once upon a time, Alex and I were full-on Scrooges, real Grinches—seriously, not a single tinsel in sight. The Christmas season? Just another reminder to skip the chaos and opt-out. But all that changed when we stumbled upon the enchanting Christmas markets in Europe. Who knew that a few twinkling lights and bustling stalls could melt even the coldest "bah, humbugs"?
The Christmas markets have become a beloved tradition. Now, we count down the days until we can lose ourselves in the aroma of freshly baked goodies and heartwarming mulled wine. Here's the story of how the markets stole our hearts:
A couple of years ago, we kicked off our first Christmas market adventure in Frankfurt with my husband Alex and our friend Jaime. Right away, the market in Römerberg had us in the holiday spirit.
Frankfurt's market, dating back to 1393, sits in the old town surrounded by charming half-timbered houses. The stalls offered sweet Bethmännchen pastries—those marzipan and nut bites quickly became our favorites.
We warmed up with mulled wine and tasted roast chestnuts, grilled sausages, and gingerbread. This market gave us the perfect introduction to traditional German Christmas fare and set the tone for our entire adventure.
Next, we found ourselves in the winter wonderland of Prague. Old Town Square was alive with its towering Christmas tree and the Astronomical Clock’s hourly show. The sweet scent of Trdelník pastries—rolled dough topped with sugar and walnuts—filled the air, making for a delicious snack.
We spiced up our visit with a food tour to savor local flavors and enjoyed a classical concert in a historic church, where the music resonated beautifully.
At Wenceslas Square, Prague's second-largest market, we browsed unique handmade wooden gifts.The Christmas market at Prague Castle, set in St George’s Square, offered stunning city views and a magnificent Christmas tree.
Climbing the St. Nicholas bell tower gave us sweeping views of Prague. We took part in a spooky night time ghost tour, uncovering Old Town’s eerie tales. And a walk across the Charles Bridge, with its iconic statues, was the cherry on top of our Prague adventure.
After our enchanting stay in Prague, we drove through Czechia, stopping at the renowned Karlovy Vary. Known for its thermal waters, the town offered a brief but refreshing respite with its soothing hot springs, before we continued our journey onto Nuremberg.
Arriving in Nuremberg was a step back into centuries of history. The Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt, nestled in the heart of Old Town before the Frauenkirche, is one of the oldest and most revered Christmas markets globally, tracing its roots back to the 16th century. This iconic market is a collector's delight, known for its annual Christkindlesmarkt mug—I might have taken home a couple ;) (Alex would say a couple too many. 🙄 The tradition is simple: when you buy a hot drink, you pay a small deposit (Pfand). You can either return the mug for your deposit or keep it as a charming souvenir—often it's the latter for us!
Nuremberg actually hosts four distinct markets, each offering its unique charm. Our favorite was the Markt der Partnerstädte, or Sister Cities Market, deeply rooted in the city's vibrant yet tumultuous past. This market serves as a testament to Nuremberg's post-war rebuilding efforts, fostering international relationships through a global bazaar that captivates visitors with wares from its partner communities. Each booth offers a distinct taste, from Venetian masks to Nicaraguan coffee and even mulled wine seasoned with African spices—a delightful twist offered by Aného, Togo.
Beyond the stalls, we explored some notable historical sites reminding us of the city’s past as a medieval trade center and, more somberly, its significance during the Third Reich. This juxtaposition added depth to our visit, painting a poignant narrative of resilience and renewal.
And as night fell, we discovered a hidden gem - Café Bar Wanderer beneath the imperial castle. Their Glühwein was a warming end to brisk explorations in a city that seamlessly weaves history with holiday spirit.
From Nuremberg, we said goodbye to Jaime and boarded the AmaVerde to begin our river cruise journey with AmaWaterways. During this trip, we discovered our love for river cruising. It’s an incredible way to explore the markets across multiple countries without the hassle of constantly unpacking. AmaWaterways truly made us feel like family; the staff continuously went above and beyond in everything they did. The food and service were exceptional, creating a delightful experience onboard.
With excursions included in the itinerary, there was an exciting variety to choose from, ensuring there was something for everyone. River cruises, hosting only 160 guests, offered an intimate atmosphere where we could really get to know our fellow travelers. We've met some amazing people during these trips—friendships that have lasted well beyond our time on the river.
Our first stop on the cruise was Regensburg, and even after several years and countless markets, the Romantic Christmas Market at Thurn and Taxis Palace remains a favorite. Regensburg’s historic district, recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2006, is a medieval gem that remained unscathed during World War II. St. Emmeram Castle, home to the esteemed Thurn und Taxis family, is a standout feature among the city’s impressive landmarks. Its picturesque backdrop adds an enchanting allure to the market, drawing thousands eager to step back in time and savor the charm of days gone by.
Nestled within the historic palace grounds, the market glows with soft pink and purple lights, with stalls both inside and outside the palace walls offering an intimate setting. Here, visitors are transported back to the era of knights, princesses, horses, and carriages. The imposing facade of the castle stands watch over the courtyard, which is gently lit by torches, lanterns, and candles, adding a warm glow to the chilly winter air. At the center of this magical village is an extravagantly decorated Christmas tree, anchoring the festive atmosphere.
Open-fire cauldrons offer warmth against the cold winter nights and serve mulled wine, while the air is filled with tantalizing aromas of traditional Bavarian treats. Culinary offerings such as wild boar on a spit, Bavarian potato soup in a loaf of bread, and Regensburger sausage sandwiches add to the festive fare. You can choose from various mulled wines like Fürstenkelch and Kutscherglück, ensuring there’s something for every palate.
Under old maple trees, roasted almonds and the scent of cotton candy create a magical atmosphere, particularly in the Children’s Magic Forest. Around the castle, the arts and crafts village feels like a journey through time, with traditional Bavarian craftsmen producing and selling unique items—everything from basket weaving to goldsmithing and my personal favorite soap makers. (I have a box of soaps at home that I give out as gifts or use when guests stay over). Each guest is sure to be enchanted by the market's inviting charm. Visitors may even spot Princess Gloria of Thurn und Taxis among the guests, adding a touch of royalty to this beautiful experience.
Salzburg was our next stop, an enchanting UNESCO World Heritage site famed for its musical legacy and indelible ties to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. This city's pride in its role as a music capital is palpable, particularly around the grand Cathedral of Salzburg, where Mozart resonates in every corner.
The Salzburg Christkindlmarkt, set against the majestic backdrop of the Hohensalzburg Fortress, offered a delightful mix of music, history, and sophisticated crafts. The air was filled with festive melodies and the inviting aroma of traditional treats. Naturally, we indulged in Mozart chocolates, especially the iconic Mozartkugeln—divine orbs of pistachio marzipan and nougat encased in layers of rich chocolate, originally crafted by a local confectioner in the 19th century.
We also couldn't resist the allure of genuine Salz, stocking up on this treasured mineral as a homage to the city whose name means "Salt Castle." Salzburg’s culinary specialties sweetened our exploration; we savored Kaiserschmarrn, a delightful fluffy shredded pancake dusted with sugar, and Bosna, a delightful spicy sausage sandwich that left our taste buds tingling with satisfaction.
A highlight was tasting the legendary Salzburger Nockerl, a decadent dessert of whipped egg yolks, sugar, dough, and milk that's as buoyant as the peaks surrounding the city. Legend has it this treat was crafted by the mistress of one of Salzburg's most famous Prince Bishops, adding a dash of historical intrigue to our culinary journey.
Each bite and note of music offered in Salzburg was a testament to the city’s rich traditions and cultural depth, making our visit an unforgettable symphony of flavors and history.
In Vienna, elegance and opulence define the cityscape, seamlessly woven into the holiday spirit. The Rathausplatz Christkindlmarkt is a focal point of grandeur, where the resplendent Viennese architecture provides a stunning backdrop for stalls brimming with artisanal crafts and mouthwatering local delicacies. Known for its opulent decor, this market is the most famous and frequented in Vienna, anchored in front of the imposing Rathaus city hall.
A massive Christmas tree commands attention at the center, encircled by a lively assortment of stalls offering every conceivable festive treat. The adjacent park adds to the magic with dazzling seasonal displays, like a tree adorned with glowing hearts and enchanting open-air ice skating paths. For the perfect photo, just cross the road and capture the scene from the steps of the Burgtheater.
Nearby, the Stephansplatz market offers a more intimate experience, with about 40 booths tucked at the foot of St. Stephen's Cathedral, showcasing high-quality Austrian products that speak volumes of tradition and artisan skill.
Just a short walk away is Maria-Theresien-Platz, where a charming Christmas Village blossoms between the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the Naturhistorisches Museum. This square not only flanks these prestigious museums but also borders the Ringstrasse, with the impressive Burgtor gates and the Hofburg palace complex just beyond. The market encircles a grand monument dedicated to Empress Maria Theresa from 1888, adding historical gravitas to the festive atmosphere. With over 70 stalls, you’ll find an array of traditional crafts and unique gifts perfect for the holiday season. Indulge in chocolate-coated fruits as you stand beneath the Empress's stern gaze, recalling her famous assertion: "While other nations do battle, you lucky Austria, you wed." Her words nod to her diplomatic strategy of marrying her 16 children into the Royal Houses of Europe to secure peace.
The market at Schönbrunn Palace, with its imperial grandeur, offers an atmospheric feast of sights and sounds. With ice skating, curling, and classic rides like a carousel and Ferris wheel, there's something for everyone. Exploring Schönbrunn Palace itself was a highlight, alongside our ventures to the Sisi Museum and Hofburg Palace. I’m a royal history enthusiast, so these spots were must-sees for me.
During the day, we visited the Butterfly Pavilion—a serene escape that offered a lush, vibrant juxtaposition to the winter chill. Stepping outside, we were greeted by a stunning rainbow arching across the sky, adding an unexpected touch of color to our Viennese adventure.
We spent Christmas Eve in this enchanting city, and the evening was crowned with a visit to the Kursalon—a magnificent Renaissance-style concert hall. Its grand architecture and opulent decor made for a perfect setting to experience the musical masterpieces of Strauss and Mozart. Bathed in the glow of chandeliers and wrapped in the notes of classical tunes, we were enveloped in an unforgettable holiday spirit and historical charm.
Our last stop on this enchanting journey was the vibrant city of Budapest, where we celebrated Christmas in grand style. We were captivated by a performance of "La Boheme" at the famous State Opera House, a night that enveloped us in opera's timeless allure.
Staying on for a few more days enabled us to dive deep into Budapest’s cultural and festive offerings. The markets at Vörösmarty Square, cloaked in rich hues of mulberry, treated us to an array of culinary delights. We savored hearty bowls of goulash—a Hungarian classic—and indulged in diverse seasonal treats that showcased the city's robust flavors. Among the stalls, we discovered an abundant array of paprika—a Hungarian staple—that made for perfect holiday gifts, bringing a touch of Budapest’s vibrant cuisine back home.
Beyond the markets, Budapest’s museums and palaces offered windows into the past, each visit revealing a slice of the city's intricate history. To balance out our bustling schedule of festive revelry, we found solace in the relaxing Széchenyi Baths. There, we soaked in the warm thermal waters, melting away any winter chill and refreshing ourselves amid the holiday excitement.
This blend of Budapest's culinary richness, cultural attractions, and relaxing thermal baths rounded off our journey along the Danube in perfect harmony, sending us home with memories as rich and varied as the city itself.
After that amazing trip, we turned our Christmas market visits into an annual tradition. Last year, we embarked on a Rhine river cruise. However, due to high waters, our original route was diverted, leading us to unexpected markets in Switzerland, Germany, France, Luxembourg, and Belgium—a detour that brought its own unique charm and discoveries.
This year, we're giving the Rhine another try with a new itinerary promising fresh routes and experiences. We're kicking off with a stop in Copenhagen, delighting in the chance to explore another country. Known for its cozy, hygge-filled atmospheres, the Tivoli Gardens Christmas market—with its fairy-tale charm and Nordic crafts—promises to envelop us in warmth, setting the perfect tone for our journey ahead.
With each step of our holiday travels, from markets aglow with twinkling lights to the aromatic stalls nestled in historic towns, we gather more than just souvenirs; we collect moments of deep joy and togetherness. Every adventure enriches not only our travel repertoire but also our hearts—a beautiful transformation from the Scrooges we once were. Here’s to the joy that Christmas markets bring, warming us one enchanting destination at a time! 🌟
If you want to join us in 2025 to experience the magical Christmas markets be sure to let us know so we can include you in the planning! www.chelaxadventures.com/trip